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My wife may want to relax but I'm keen to dive headlong into my first spa experience.

It's to Therme Erding's new indoor water park, a short walk through the children's thermal playground, that we head to first.

Loungers in the Alhambra dry sauna are evenly spaced out around a central circle.Soft music mutes any noise from your naked neighbour.There's just enough light to read a newspaper by, but most of us doze on the contoured beds.We try to bag one as a base for our things (newspapers, books and i Pods are allowed, cameras are verboten). Despite signs pleading against the habit, every single seat is reserved with a towel.As we float lazily in main herbal pool we spy a place for quiet pint.

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